Jean Béraud, 1849-1935

The Café Paintings

"Béraud is a perfect Parisian, not only by birth but by sentiment and art, in the exercise of which he paints the most characteristic Parisian types. … Béraud is not only a perfect Parisian, but he is one who appreciates and can depict Parisian life in its boulevards, cafés, and gardens."

Henry Bacon, “Glimpses of Parisian Art,” Scribner’s Monthly, December 1880, pg. 424-425

Absinthe as it was seen in its most common setting was captured perhaps no better than by Jean Béraud in the series of paintings shown here.

"The Letter" displays all of the common accoutrements: glasses of louched absinthe on saucers which were commonly marked with a drink's price, a carafe filled with iced water, and ordinary spoons.  The absence of a dish of sugar cubes and absinthe spoons suggests that these spoons were used only for stirring.

Also present are two "pyogénée", the small porcelain matchstick holders which also served as strikers.

In the paintings here we see absinthe as it was imbided most commonly: as a leisurely drink to be enjoyed with a smoke, a game of billiards or backgammon.  In otherwords, as an ordinary daily drink, much as we might have a glass of wine or beer today.

This painting depicts how the price-marked saucers were stacked as the guest ordered more absinthes or other drinks.  At the end of the evening, the guest's tab was calculated by adding up the saucers. You can also see several cigarette girls rolling cigarettes for patrons.

See how closely he watches the Queen of Coquettes,

As her white hands roll deftly those small cigarettes!

He believes in her smiles and puts faith in her sighs

While he's dazzled by light from her fathomless eyes.

Ah, the dearest of voices delightfully sings

Through the wind intertwining of Cigarette Rings!